Décrypter les étiquettes des soins pour bébé : le mode d'emploi by Élhée - Élhée

Decoding baby care labels: the user guide by Élhée

In the baby cosmetics and skincare aisle, it's not always easy to know which way to turn. You turn the tubes over and over, you read through the ingredient lists without really understanding them, and above all, you always ask yourself: " which one to choose for such delicate little skin? " At Élhée, we believe that a mother's peace of mind is priceless. So, rather than explaining how to decipher baby skincare labels, we chose to simplify them. And yet, we tell you everything to make your choice easier. 

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Why your baby's skin deserves all your attention

an organic liniment for your baby

French Society of Dermatology dermato-info, a baby's epidermis is about 30% thinner than an adult's, and its skin barrier is still immature. A developing hydrolipidic film, sebaceous glands that are not yet functional, a temperature regulation capacity that is still developing... In short, a little skin under construction that above all requires a lot of gentleness.

Also, the skin surface-to-body weight ratio is about three times higher in babies compared to adults. The substances applied to them therefore have a proportionally much greater impact. 

Good to know: unlike the acidity of your adult skin, which acts as a shield against external aggressors, your baby's skin and its more neutral pH, especially during the first few weeks, prove to be much more sensitive to alkaline soaps, fragrances, and preservatives. 

The secrets of the INCI list for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

Behind this somewhat opaque abbreviation (INCI, for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) actually lies a universal language. Mandatory in Europe since 1998, this nomenclature is governed by the European cosmetics regulation and controlled in France by the DGCCRF. The advantage is that it is the same everywhere in the world and therefore, a few landmarks are enough to help you find your way much more easily, regardless of where you are and the products you buy.

  • The ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. The DGCCRF clearly reminds us: "generally, the first 3 or 4 ingredients in the list make up more than 80% of the product"."
  • The Latin names refer to ingredients of natural origin (Olea europaea for olive oil, Butyrospermum parkii for shea butter...).
  • The English names most often refer to chemical ingredients, synthesized or processed.

Quick tip: carefully observe the first five ingredients. If they are short, natural, and recognizable, that's already a very good sign. If they look like a laboratory formula, it may be time to put the tube back.

The controversial ingredients to absolutely avoid to protect your baby's health

On the other hand, there are large families of ingredients with which it is best to take precautions, especially for daily care applied to your baby's skin. And good news, these guidelines also apply to your own skincare; adult skin also deserves attention. 

Family How to identify them Why they are suspected
Suspected endocrine disruptors Phenoxyethanol, EDTA, certain parabens Suspected of interfering with the hormonal system
Aggressive sulfates Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) Too harsh for a fragile skin barrier
Synthetic fragrances Parfum or Fragrance without specification Among the first allergens in very young children
Petrochemical mineral oils Paraffinum Liquidum, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum Occlusive, derived from non-renewable resources
Alcohols Alcohol denat. at the top of the list Dehydrate already delicate skin

The case of phenoxyethanol deserves special attention. Since December 20, 2019, by decision of the ANSM, non-rinse cosmetic products containing phenoxyethanol must bear the mention "do not use on the buttocks of children aged 3 years or less". The measure notably concerns wipes, widely used for changing.

In the same way, since April 2015, propylparaben and butylparaben are banned in non-rinse products intended for the buttocks of children under three.

The favorite labels to look for on labels

Faced with the different promises displayed on labels, labels certified by an independent organization stand out. Their particularity? They are based on strict specifications and are controlled every year, for a real guarantee, at every purchase.

  • COSMOS Organic: the most demanding European standard, created in 2010 and in force since 2017 to harmonize the guarantees of organic cosmetics internationally. It notably requires that at least 95% of the plants come from organic farming, and prohibits petrochemical ingredients such as parabens, phenoxyethanol, or synthetic fragrances.
  • Ecocert: the historic French certifying organization, a world reference in natural and organic cosmetics for over twenty years. On average, the products it certifies contain 99% ingredients of natural origin.
  • Cosmébio: the French association founded in 2002, which today brings together more than 16,300 products and 650 brands certified according to the COSMOS specifications.
  • Cosmécert : independent French organization created in 2017, specializing in the certification of organic and natural cosmetics. Its name must appear in the official mentions on the packaging of the products it certifies.

Of course, there are other recognized labels such as NATRUE, Nature & Progrès, Soil Association, BDIH, Demeter, USDA Organic... To check if a product is certified and by which organization, you can consult the official COSMOS database, which lists all labeled products in the world. A good habit in case of doubt.

6 good habits to adopt to choose baby skincare properly

the organic cleansing foam for baby's skin
  • Prioritize short lists. The fewer ingredients, the fewer risks. A simple formula is often the sign of a well-thought-out care.
  • Check the mention "tested under pediatric or dermatological control", especially for babies with reactive skin.
  • Check the indicated age of use. "From birth" is never a marketing formula: it is a serious regulatory authorization.
  • Beware of lack of precision. The DGCCRF itself reminds that certain mentions such as "hypoallergenic" or "paraben-free" are not based on any rigorous definition and can be misleading.
  • Prioritize transparent brands, those that detail each ingredient on their site, explain their choices and have nothing to hide.
  • And above all, trust yourself. If it stings, if it reddens, if the smell bothers, change it. Your instinct is often your best advisor.

Your Élhée allies for a 100% worry-free baby skincare routine

At Élhée, we started by applying all these rules to our products, for the health of your baby. Because a brand that talks about labels must be able to show its own without blushing, we designed a routine designed for the most fragile skin: short lists, organic ingredients, recognized certifications, and this same poetic exigence that has driven us since the beginning.

  • The Oleo-calcaire liniment 100% of natural origin for a gently revisited changing gesture, based on organic olive oil and usable from birth.
  • The 3-in-1 Organic Cleansing Foam offers you an all-in-one care, for a perfectly clean baby, from the tips of their hair to their little toes.
  • The Milky Water is meant to be a care fragrance, like a Proustian madeleine in a bottle, shared between mom and baby.
  • The Certified Organic Moisturizing Milk acts as a real little cocoon every day; to use morning and evening, all throughout the winter and always, after the bath.
  • The Very High Protection SPF50 Sunscreen was formulated for babies and for future moms. Its ultra-high tolerance formula carries a new generation photostable filter, non-penetrating and respectful of sensitive skin.

In short, the Organic Baby Skincare Routine is to give, to give to them and to give to yourself, to protect their little baby skin, from birth. And what if, finally, reading a label was an act of love like any other ? 🤍

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